For our first Not Beer, I took a look at a very misunderstood alcohol, absinthe, which has been popping back up in more and more bars across the Philadelphia area. And what better example could we give than Philadelphia Distillng’s Vieux Carré.
La fée verte, l’atroce sorciere, Notre-Dame de l’oubli*; these are just a few of the bohemian nicknames tagged to one of the world’s most controversial liqueurs. I am of course referring to absinthe, which was once knowingly consumed and appreciated by artists and politicians alike including Vincent van Gogh, Oscar Wilde, William Howard Taft, and Theodore Roosevelt. So with such great esteem, how did this liqueur get banned during the early 1900s
throughout countries in Europe and the U.S. in 1912?
The general consensus was that The Green Fairy drove people fucking insane. Aside from the general
associations to violent crimes and social disorder, rumors of suicide attempts and even van Gogh famously cutting off his own ear were attributed to the levels of intoxication due to the consumption of absinthe.
How is absinthe any different than onetoo many beers you may ask? Absinthe generally is between 110 and 150 proof (55-75% ABV) and traditionally distilled with wormwood (artemisia absinthium) as one of its three main ingredients; which is the essence of absinthe’s great controversy. Wormwood contains a neurotoxin called thujone which is similar to THC (marijuana). Many have argued that the inclusion of wormwood causes brain damage, leads to hallucination, and drives people to act unfavorably. Others point out that a person would be too whacked out of their mind by the high alcohol content before the effects of such a small percentage of wormwood sets in.
It wasn’t until March of 2007 that the federal government allowed absinthe to once again fill the shelves of liquor stores (and with tight regulation,naturally) throughout the country and earlier this year that the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board (PLCB) permitted the sale of absinthe throughout its chain of Wine and Spirit Shoppes. Before you would even find absinthe in PA, Philadelphia Distilling became the first east coast distiller of absinthe with its release of Vieux Carré Absinthe Supérieure on December 31, 2008.
According to the Philadelphia Distilling’s President, Andrew Auwerda, “The spirits’ flavor and color is derived exclusively from 100% natural herbs. The flavor is simultaneously complex, mysterious and engaging and its deep olive color is reminiscent of a vintage jewel.” Vieux Carré is nothing less than a perfect blend of bohemian traditionalism and American ingenuity. The absinthe is distilled by a “double maceration” process using Grande Wormwood, Petite Wormwood, Green and Star Anise, Fennel Doux Provence, Melissa, Genepi, Hyssop and Spearmint.
Upon tasting this absinthe in the traditional fashion (see sidebar), the distinct flavors and strong alcohol notes overwhelm your senses. The herbs release a profound freshness across your palette while maintaining a subtle sweetness in the aftertaste. It is definitely unique and bold. I have had the opportunity to taste several European absinthes and this blend is nothing less than extraordinary and exceeds the profiles of many of its overseas counterparts.
As a final note, not only is this liqueur distilled in Philadelphia but the beautiful artistry of its square glass bottle featuring screen printed floral patterns was designed by Saxco International in Horsham, PA and Quest, Inc. in Hillside, NJ.
If you are a beer lover, absinthe may be far from what you would usually experiment with. However, if you appreciate fine beers for their various unique characters and flavors, giving this absinthe a try may be worth it. Vieux Carré is approximately $60 and can be found at most Wine & Spirit Shoppes throughout the Philadelphia area.
* La fée verte, l’atroce sorciere, Notre-Dame de l’oubli - The Green Fairy, The Atrocious Sorceress, Our Lady of Forgetting
